- Friday, November 07, 2003 at 13:21:51 (PST)
- Wednesday, October 29, 2003 at 18:41:11 (PST)
I have the 67 a couple of posts back. I have some new questions. Both of the axle u-joints on my front end have shattered. News to me at the time as I had no Idea that the axles had u-joints. I don't have to much experience with these old fords, I've had several late seventies, but I've never seen this kind of set up. My questions are, what kind of differential is it? Will it be difficult to find replacement axles, and a replacement wheel whateveritis that the axle joins to with the ujoint? Do the axles slide out of the differential easily via a retaining c-clip, or am I going to have to take this to a shop? Any other info would be well appreciated. Thank you.
- Wednesday, October 29, 2003 at 11:36:12 (PST)
Have you come across a way to do a PS tilt column that has safety collapsable column?
- Friday, October 10, 2003 at 12:39:20 (PDT)
I haven't done a 4x4 PS swap. But I would think any PS setup off a 70's 4x4 truck should swap in. You may have to change the box, column, and possibly the drag link to do it. Along with the pump and brackets of course.
- Saturday, September 06, 2003 at 16:29:14 (PDT)
Anything can be done. But maybe using a 67-72 4x4 frame under your existing body might be easier. The engine swap sounds doable without too much trouble. In any event, it sounds like fun.
- Saturday, September 06, 2003 at 16:25:30 (PDT)
- Saturday, September 06, 2003 at 02:12:06 (PDT)
- Friday, September 05, 2003 at 14:05:41 (PDT)
If not, I can definately get one during my next junkyard run.
Will be a couple weeks though.
- Thursday, August 28, 2003 at 22:16:11 (PDT)
Came across this site through http://www.larryscars.com/index.html
I have a '71 F250 Camper Special, and in the process of trying to replace the AT column shift collar, I've **gasp** misplaced the small metal tab and two screws that retain the spring detent for the shift lever. Amazingly enough, the wrecking yards in this area have absolutely no steering columns or steering parts for this truck! So....I'm just trying to track down either a good used entire column or one that has parts I can use.
If anyone can help me out, I'd appreciate it.
- Monday, August 25, 2003 at 07:29:39 (PDT)
Someone asked about updates. There have been none for a couple months now. I've just been too busy. But I will be updating in not too long. If anyone has any specific ideas for additions or tech articles, please let me know.
- Friday, August 22, 2003 at 09:06:23 (PDT)
- Friday, August 22, 2003 at 09:04:08 (PDT)
Thanks for the good words.
I'm not sure about wheel compatability. But I would think any wheel with the correct splines would work. I think ALOT of wheels would fit. I'm swapping out the entire column so it will have tilt and cruise buttons too.
- Friday, May 30, 2003 at 20:30:00 (PDT)
The site's been online since early April.
Hope it helps out.
- Friday, May 30, 2003 at 20:27:39 (PDT)
Following your progress on your '67 F-100. Appreciate the info on installing different seats, as that is something I
have to do. Nice to know what will or will not fit. I want as little labor involved as possible. Take out and put in
appeals to me, so with your process, I at least know what
to look for or what might work. the dash gauge cluster is
very nice. I don't much care for the original design-- and
the plastic looks worse than one can imagine "plastic"
looking. the steering wheel is also in bad shape, so that,
some time down the road, will, I hope, be replaced.
Keep up the good articles. A real help and makes for enjoyable reading. How flexible can one be in choosing
a different steering wheel? Never replaced one and wonder
how interchangeable steer-wheels are?
- Friday, May 30, 2003 at 09:50:01 (PDT)
this sure will be a "BIG" help with 70' Ranger XLT
- Monday, May 26, 2003 at 19:58:40 (PDT)
Checed out the '67 Project. and the Technical site. Very informitive. The SEMS product was not on the market in '67 during my off frame '55 Chevy Hard-Top. I went to the dealer in Ft. Smith, Arkansas, the shop manager had a suggestion for my under-coat request. With out the line pressure I would not push this under-coat. He pulled the top off of the container and scooped out three gal. of under-coat. "Put it on with a stiff brush" I had to use a wide putty knife...the brush and a little acetone came in handy. The inner fender wells received a classical ceiling texture. The results was good...the effort was a mess.
The mystery of the 'tube' has been solved on Fred's F-100. Choke stove tube for the automatic choke.
Get back to you later.
- Saturday, May 03, 2003 at 05:12:22 (PDT)
You can see the 38 project over at www.larryscars.com.
I'm much more excited to get the 67 done as it will be my everyday driver. The 70 PU I'm driving now is not dependable enough.
I have a hard time finding misses too. I would start by pulling the plugs to see if it's an obvious bad plug or wire. Then check the timing, points, rotor, cap... the usual suspects. Of course a miss could be carburation as well. I ended up actually replacing the entire dist in my 70 after I exhausted all the other possabilities.
- Friday, May 02, 2003 at 14:24:29 (PDT)
You mentioned the 38. What is it and are there pics up?
Here we go with a complete novice question. Now that the '67 is back on the road. A friend mentioned that it might be missing on one cylinder. It does seem to be running a little rough. Is there an easy way to check this out-- that I can do myself? I took a look at member pics.
Nice trucks to say the least. Mine has been a desert work-horse and has dings and scrapes. And, man, I do appreciate the time you give to my queries. Looking forward to seeing
your site grow.
- Thursday, May 01, 2003 at 16:38:51 (PDT)
I have started on the 67 project now. Still not done with my 38 project but I am waiting on parts so the 67 is in the garage. Starting with teardown and fitting the new stuff now. You can follow along in the project 67 area. Hopefully something I come across will be helpful to some.
- Wednesday, April 30, 2003 at 17:11:30 (PDT)
On my '67 F100, There was a broken wire right at the connector leading from the alternator- four wires there.
Charging problem solved. On the fuel problem, I pulled the
old '67 fuel tank and installed one from a '77 3/4 ton
PU, but with a little shoving, heavy-hammer pounding, and drilling, got it in. Also, replaced the fuel lines. The
old work horse is back on the road. Thanks much for the help. Looking forward to the progress on your website.
- Wednesday, April 30, 2003 at 09:21:39 (PDT)
I'm not sure what that is. Depending on size it could be for the PCV or maybe for a transmission modulator. If it's creating a vaccuum leak, you should at least plug it though. Any more info?
- Wednesday, April 23, 2003 at 16:26:21 (PDT)
Thanks for the reply- it takes time to work through, reflect, and post. You have my gratitude. Electrical,
at this stage, is one or two steps above knowing nothing. As you suggest, had cleaned all terminals.
I haven't been on the inside at the switch. Some of the work that has been done on the truck over
the years has not been the best. There are dangling wires here and there.. I'll check the fusebox.
Thanks for the confirmation: I thought of adding a see- through filter just before the carb. The truck is
at a garage, The mech said the alternator is charging [functioning] but the battery is not taking the charge.
I have no instrument for measuring voltage. To this point have never needed one. Your 12 volt/14 volt
sounds good, simple and useful in the future.
Now you are talking. I will definitely add a 12 volt taillight bulb to my tool tricks. I said I was one or two
steps above knowing nothing along the electrical line. Your electrical tips will certainly help me, now
as well as in the future. A friend of mine and I came up with the same deduction independently.
It has to be something simple which seems to insist on being mysterious.
What really mystifies me is the same similar symptom intermittantly along a fuel and electrical problem.
One thing at a time, right?
OK, new question. Should be a simple answer. Looking at the truck from the front. On the carb and to
the rear there is a metal tube that extends out and arcs over the head and ends in nothing, an open
tube. It draws air in when truck is running. What is it and what does it do? Why is it like that? Where was
it supposed to go?
- Wednesday, April 23, 2003 at 08:20:06 (PDT)
If anybody wants a tech article on a specific thing please let me know. I'll try to do one.
If you have an article I'd be glad to put it up.
- Tuesday, April 22, 2003 at 17:45:42 (PDT)
Thanks for posting.
Looks like you have replaced most of the obvious things.
So I may be grasping but...
The very first thing I would do is check my wiring for condition and clean the terminals and ends. Clean both ends of the batt cables and thier attachments. Clean all the wires going to the regulator, alternator, starter, and selenoid using sandpaper. Then go inside and clean the wires going to the ignition switch. If you see anything frayed or loose, fix it. Take the screws out of the fusebox and make sure there is no burning or corrosion on the backside.
Then I'd check to see if that solves the problem.
If not, then....
I'd put a clear inline filter close to the carb where I could see it. Make sure it's getting enough gas and it's not full of crap. Pull any other filters incase they are getting plugged. I kinda doubt this is the problem though as you have already replaced most the system. Still, it could be more than one problem and it's easy to do.
Then, if your battery is still draining...
Either your not charging or your draining. So first check if your battery is actually charging.
With the truck off measure the voltage across the terminals of the battery. It should be around 12 volts. Then start the truck and test it again. You should get a higher voltage reading like 14 or so. If it's higher, you know it's actually getting charged and that's not the problem.
If it's carging, then I would concentrate on voltage drains. Remove the neg battery cable from the battery. Tape or solder a 12 volt taillight bulb to the ends of two pieces of wire. Then tape one end to the neg cable and one end to the neg post. Make sure the ignition is off and that there is nothing that will obviuosly cause a drain (like an open door / int lights on). If the bulb lights up then you have a pretty good size drain somewhere. Things like the clock on your radio (if you have one) usually won't draw enough to light the bulb. Now pull one fuse at a time from the fuse panel. If the light goes out, you know what circuit it is on. If you pull all the fuses and it's still lit then it's something not going through the fuse box. You can unplug stuff like the ignition switch and alternator to try and locate the drain. Hopefully you won't have to do this!
Also, on my 70 PU I had a bad ignition switch that caused the engine to die and only start intermittantly. I took mine apart and cleaned inside and it works good now.
Like I said, you already replaced the same stuff I would have. Hopefully this will help you. Certainly an odd problem but it will probably end up a simple little thing that takes forever to find!
- Tuesday, April 22, 2003 at 14:23:03 (PDT)
Bob was kind enough to send a few thoughts along on my '67 Ford 100 Ranger [352 long block]PU to me along with your URL.
Here is the background. I acquired the vehicle from an older friend who used it mainly just to run
to the dump [here in CA desert] on occasion. It was his second vehicle. The motor was rebuilt in '91 but when I got it seven months ago it only had about 1300 miles on the engine. Before I acquired it, we
were driving and it cut in and out and died, like a fuel problem. It was worked on by a garage and
a new fuel pump put on. The mechanic brought the truck back down to the desert and he had the
same problem- so apparently not the fuel pump. Took it back. Worked on it. Brought it back.
Then I acquired it. It ran OK for awhile. Again, cut in and out and would die- erratic behavior.
Then, Volt Reg. stuck on charge. One smelly battery but didn't blow. Because of this and when the
engine was rebuilt and the original bolt ons put back. I decided to update and put in a new Volt.Reg.
new solenoid and alternator. I then rebuilt the carb. Test run down to the store about 12 miles from
here. Again same symptom, cut in and out but I did make it to the store. When I jumped into the
vehicle. The new battery was dead. After two hours [give or take], it did start. Two miles down the
road, it died. Fellow came along and gave me a jump start and followed me home. It took three
jump starts to get the vehicle the total twelve miles.
I charged the battery. Friend was going to tow me to another [thirty miles away] garage. The vehicle ran OK on the level, but would not drive up about a 20 degree grade.Tried it four times. Mystified, as you might imagine. I was attempting to drive the three miles to the friend's house. Once we got it beyond
the hills and I coasted down into the valley, I started it up and was able to drive the remaining
five miles- on the flat- to the garage. The mechanic still hasn't found the problem. The symptoms
were close to identical for both fuel and electrical. When the battery is charged up, everything electrical
works; lights, turn signals, horn, heater etc. I would like to hear your thoughts.
the carb had a plastic float which has been replaced with a brass 'n solder job. There was quite
some residue in the bowl, so a new fuel tank is going into the truck. Thanks for any reflection.
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 21:18:01 (PDT)
Thanks for the good words. That front mount dist is STILL intimidating. Took a while to figure it out but it runs great now. The 38 is almost done. I would have had it done this week but I pulled a chest muscle this morning and can't do much right now. Even typing hurts!!
After that's done I'm going to start on the 67 and I can't wait.
As far as ideas on your friends truck, do you have more details? I just picked up a bunch of wiring diagrams for a 67 if those might help. What's happening with the truck in particular?
Thanks for posting!
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 17:06:37 (PDT)
That type-O remains, But it is real close.
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 06:49:52 (PDT)
Look forward to your reply.
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 06:40:32 (PDT)
Look forward to your reply.
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 06:38:36 (PDT)
Look forward to your reply.
- Monday, April 21, 2003 at 06:34:00 (PDT)
I didn't recieve your submission yet. I think I may be having email problems today as several people have called me today (about other stuff) and asked if I recieved thier email. But I haven't. Maybe it's being kept in a cue and will arrive later. I'll let you know if it doesn't show up.
If you email the pics to me I can put them up for you. The site has only been up about three days now. That's why it's not complete yet but I'm working on it.
I'm in the upper penninsula of Michigan.
- Wednesday, April 16, 2003 at 12:36:53 (PDT)
- Wednesday, April 16, 2003 at 12:09:21 (PDT)
- Sunday, April 13, 2003 at 17:14:02 (PDT)